The Baixa
(that means low, bottom) is the
"new" historic center of Lisbon. Although the previous definition of "new center" may
seem contradictory at first sight,
in fact it is not. The first center of the capital was Rossio, but due to the increasing importance of the port city, after
the 1755 earthquake that destroyed the
Lisbon's center, Marquês de Pombal decided that the new Praça do Comércio should be the new capital's center.
But going on slowly...take our time...
The Baixa is precisely the
lower part of the city, starting from
the river Tejo,
it goes inland, passing through Rossio, Restauradores, and
finally continues into the endless Avenida da Liberdade. At the sides of the Baixa, rise two hill's lines, eastern
and western, which, proceeding toward
the inside, delimit it. The Baixa, being one of the best located places, was one of the first inhabited areas of the city. Unluckily, in 1755 came a
great earthquake followed by a
tsunami that literally destroyed
the "bairro". In this
case, the low natural position,
that was favorable to the accessibility and the population of the neighborhood, turned out to be dangerous. Baixa consisted of
a set of short
streets chaotically linked among ancient buildings and referred to the square
Terreiro do Paço. Marquês de Pombal, after
having buried the dead, and stopped the robbers,
decided to rebuild the district starting from the square. This reconstruction
had to be a "grandiose work",
following the most modern architectural
and urban needs,
but at the same time it had to express the symbolic importance of
the absolute power of the
kingdom. In other words, the new
square and the new district had
to represent to the world the beauty and munificence of
the Portuguese nation and its royal
house.
In order to witness the "new" international
importance of the ancient city
Terreiro do Paço square was renamed Praça do Comércio. The structure,
strictly symmetrical and parallel (geometry = perfection, perfection = power), was designed to promote, through a clever use of perspective, the vision of the whole square. The most important foreign visitors landed
in a small private dock, that is located on the side of the square facing the river, so they could see the Statue
of King Jose I (in the square's center) and the arch above it that overlook
"rua Augusta". Starting
from rua Augusta, the new Baixa show itself as a regular "lattice"
of parallel and perpendicular streets which intersect one with each other. All the buildings have the
same height and often the same
architectural style, the terraces are
long, narrow and they always have the
same size. All of this was made with the intention to protect the city from
others earthquakes, but also for symbolize the new importance of the kingdom.
Today, in the Baixa, there are many touristic places, offices of banks and businesses (even if they
are moving more and more to Marquês de Pombal),
hotels and commercial shops. Nightlife... zero. It
should be noted just the elevador de Santa Justa, the Design and Fashion's museum, and a couple of
cafes, especially good for coffee or rest, but not for go there after dinner.
Walking in the ancient streets, full of silences and colors, is a unique experience: squares, terraces, historic buildings are the setting for this tour, while restaurants and bars are the better places to rest and taste typical Portuguese food and drinks. The restaurants and bars, often family managed, tell a different Lisbon from the tourist capital of the Baixa or Expo, they show the people who live here, the same who have always lived here. Traditional food and drink (at local prices ... so cheap) are also accompanied by the famous Portuguese music called Fado, whose notes and melodies describe the picturesque sites of Alfama. 
